Jaffna wore a totally forsaken look. The once busy railway station had been destroyed, with just a few crumbling walls to testify to what it had been through. I stayed in a guest house. This was a converted house of a Tamil family which had moved abroad fearing anti-Tamil riots. I spoke at a small gathering on the topic 'Tamil Nadu media and the issues of Sri Lankan Tamils'. As elsewhere, here too the people were less than forthcoming in talking about the post-war situation. But I could understand why this was; also why the few who spoke were so upset with the way Tamil politicians in Tamil Nadu hoped the reports of Prabhakaran being alive were true, and along with these the possibility of renewed war.
The cook of the guest house spoke after much prodding. He was a fisherman before the war and took up the job after his release from the refugee camp. Said he, “In the last leg of the war the Tigers took us along with them. We stayed in 11 places, everywhere in bunkers, while on retreat.”
One of Sri Lanka’s major incongruities is that you find Buddha statues and soldiers in close juxtaposition all over the country. They were all very huge. I could not dissect these two images, which always made me nervous. Every time a new Buddha statue comes up, the statue of some Hindu god (Muruga, Ganesh, Mariamman) is seen coming up as a reaction. In Jaffna my friend, advocate Rangan Devarajan, took me to meet Douglas Devendanda, Eeelam Peoples Democratic Party president and a minister in the current government. Said Devendanda: “Tamils can’t survive independently. A separate country is not possible.” He has faced 16 attempts on his life. When I asked him whether, as rumoured, it was possible that Prabhakaran might be alive, he only smiled. Then, as he came to the road to see us off, he said he would not have been able to do so had Prabhakaran not perished.
The journey from Jaffna to Colombo proved to be much worse than I had imagined. This time we took a bus. Only private buses take you directly to Colombo. The ticket price is Rs 2,500. I clambered onto one of six worn-out buses – all of which set off together under heavy military security. Till Savakachery and Elephant Pass we could see some movement of people. But thereafter you saw only soldiers. We crossed Kilinochi, the erstwhile head quarters of LTTE. Today it is a ghost town. A huge overhead water tank had been pulled town, and houses, schools, colleges, temples, churches – all had met the same fate. Lining the road were thousands of headless palm trees that from a distance looked like huge black pillars. Their tops had been lopped off due to fears of possible Tiger attacks. Such desolate scenes were hard to bear. When I tried to capture these images in my mobile a co-passenger said, “Be warned. The army men could be watching you.”
This was A-9 highway, which connects Jaffna with the mainland and Colombo and passes through dense forests. Here once again one saw nothing but soldiers, their guns turned towards the forest. My co-passenger whispered that the soldiers were there expecting possible attacks by LTTE survivors who might still be hiding in the forest!
The cook of the guest house spoke after much prodding. He was a fisherman before the war and took up the job after his release from the refugee camp. Said he, “In the last leg of the war the Tigers took us along with them. We stayed in 11 places, everywhere in bunkers, while on retreat.”
One of Sri Lanka’s major incongruities is that you find Buddha statues and soldiers in close juxtaposition all over the country. They were all very huge. I could not dissect these two images, which always made me nervous. Every time a new Buddha statue comes up, the statue of some Hindu god (Muruga, Ganesh, Mariamman) is seen coming up as a reaction. In Jaffna my friend, advocate Rangan Devarajan, took me to meet Douglas Devendanda, Eeelam Peoples Democratic Party president and a minister in the current government. Said Devendanda: “Tamils can’t survive independently. A separate country is not possible.” He has faced 16 attempts on his life. When I asked him whether, as rumoured, it was possible that Prabhakaran might be alive, he only smiled. Then, as he came to the road to see us off, he said he would not have been able to do so had Prabhakaran not perished.
The journey from Jaffna to Colombo proved to be much worse than I had imagined. This time we took a bus. Only private buses take you directly to Colombo. The ticket price is Rs 2,500. I clambered onto one of six worn-out buses – all of which set off together under heavy military security. Till Savakachery and Elephant Pass we could see some movement of people. But thereafter you saw only soldiers. We crossed Kilinochi, the erstwhile head quarters of LTTE. Today it is a ghost town. A huge overhead water tank had been pulled town, and houses, schools, colleges, temples, churches – all had met the same fate. Lining the road were thousands of headless palm trees that from a distance looked like huge black pillars. Their tops had been lopped off due to fears of possible Tiger attacks. Such desolate scenes were hard to bear. When I tried to capture these images in my mobile a co-passenger said, “Be warned. The army men could be watching you.”
This was A-9 highway, which connects Jaffna with the mainland and Colombo and passes through dense forests. Here once again one saw nothing but soldiers, their guns turned towards the forest. My co-passenger whispered that the soldiers were there expecting possible attacks by LTTE survivors who might still be hiding in the forest!